1. Verify the HIN — on the hull, not just the paper
Every boat built since November 1, 1972 has a 12-character Hull Identification Number permanently affixed to the starboard side of the transom, with a duplicate hidden elsewhere on the hull. Find it physically and confirm it matches the title, registration, and listing exactly.
A HIN that is missing, altered, ground down, or that doesn't match the paperwork is a stop sign — it can indicate a stolen hull or a rebuilt total loss. Decode the number with the free HIN decoder to confirm the manufacturer and model year line up with what the seller claims. A 2005-model boat whose HIN decodes to 1998 is a conversation you want to have before, not after, the sale.
2. Check the title and liens
Get the title in hand and confirm the seller's name matches it. A boat sold with a lien still attached can be repossessed from you even after you pay the seller — the lienholder's claim follows the boat.
For state-titled boats, the state title record shows the owner and any recorded lienholder. For a federally documented vessel, financing usually shows up as a Preferred Ship's Mortgage on the Coast Guard's abstract of title — order the abstract from the NVDC or confirm status through the free USCG vessel search. Never take "it's paid off" on faith; make the release of any lien a condition of closing.
3. Search USCG documentation status
If the boat is (or was) federally documented, confirm its current status directly. The Coast Guard's public records let you look up a documented vessel by name, official number, or HIN and see its documentation status, hailing port, and particulars.
Use the free USCG vessel search to confirm the documentation is current and the vessel details match. If the seller claims the boat is documented but you can't find it, or the record doesn't match the hull in front of you, slow down. Understanding whether the boat should be documented or state-registered at all is covered in registration vs documentation.
4. Consider a paid history report
The free checks above catch a lot, but they won't surface an out-of-state accident, an insurance total-loss, or a theft record from another jurisdiction. A paid boat-history report aggregates those records. It is optional and not always worth it — see the honest boat-history-report comparison, which starts by listing what you can check for free — but on an expensive or suspicious purchase it can be cheap insurance.
5. Get an independent survey
On any boat worth more than a few thousand dollars, hire your own accredited marine surveyor — not one the seller recommends. A survey covers hull moisture, structural integrity, engine condition, electrical and fuel systems, and safety gear, and it produces a written report that doubles as a negotiating tool and an insurance/financing requirement.
Pay for the survey yourself so the surveyor answers to you. A good survey routinely pays for itself in either avoided disasters or a corrected price.
6. Sea trial under real conditions
Run the boat the way you'll use it: reach cruising RPM, hold it there, and watch temperature, oil pressure, and how it tracks and handles. Check that it planes (if it should), that the transmission engages cleanly in both directions, and that electronics, bilge pumps, and steering work under way. A cold-start-in-the-driveway demo is not a sea trial. Ideally the surveyor attends.
7. Close with a proper bill of sale and state transfer
The bill of sale should list the full HIN, year/make/model, the agreed price, the date, and both parties' names and signatures. It is your proof of the transaction and the price (which matters for sales tax).
Then complete the transfer with the right authority: for a state-titled boat, submit the signed title and bill of sale to the state (in Florida, the county tax collector — see the Florida registration guide); for a documented vessel, file a transfer of ownership with the NVDC. Get liens released in writing at or before closing, and don't hand over money until the paperwork is in order.
Planning to charter or take paying passengers?
If your plan for the boat is to carry passengers for hire — charter fishing, tours, or sunset cruises — buying the boat is only half of it: the operation itself requires a USCG captain's credential. A boat carrying up to six paying passengers needs an operator with at least an OUPV "six-pack" license. If you're not sure whether your intended use crosses into passenger-for-hire, start with do I need a captain's license.